Surprisingly Vivienne Westwood shied away from her roots and did not hold a military tattoo as we’d come to expect from her infamous signature style. Black watch tartans and other plaids were left to Scervino, Etro and Corneliani this time, who went wild on them.
As if wandering through an eclectic art gallery, the house of Westwood chose to bring a whole mix of silhouettes in the parabolic long hall of the Triennale. Thirty-three outfits between which a connection was truly hard to find. Cartoonesque models showed an amalgam of kitty cat teeshirts, candy stripes, assymetrical knits, flashy bombers and baggy jumpers which were alternated with more stylish suits that all marched a few steps forward on good old sartorial lane. Closures off centre, bashful patterns, waiter-vest short, contrasting insets, big lapels on waistcoats overlapping the jackets… it was all there. Creative at heart, truly beautiful at times, flashy yes, but rather incoherent to say the least. Westwood fans will love it though and there is really something for everyone in it, as the grand picture of the collection is very wearable indeed. A different Westwood.
Text: Koen Eeckhout